If you’re preparing to sell your home or simply want to ensure that your gas water heater is up to code, it’s crucial that it passes inspection. In this DIY guide, we’ll show you how to fix two common water heater issues flagged during home inspections: replacing the base and extending the pressure pipe. By following these steps, you can avoid costly repairs and ensure your water heater is safe and functional.
Materials and Tools Needed:
- CPVC pipe (for pressure relief)
- Metal water heater base (if needed)
- Wrenches
- Air compressor (optional for faster draining)
- Hose or bucket (to drain water heater)
- CPVC glue
- Thread sealant (for gas line)
Common Inspection Issues with Water Heaters:
- Incorrect Base: In some cases, water heaters may be installed on a concrete base, but modern codes often require a metal base.
- Improper Pressure Relief Pipe: The pressure relief pipe must extend to within six inches of the floor to pass inspection.
Step 1: Turn Off the Gas and Water Supply
Before starting any repairs, safety is key. Begin by shutting off the gas supply using the valve at the bottom of the water heater. Then, turn off the cold and hot water supplies at the top of the unit.
Step 2: Drain the Water Heater
You need to drain the water heater to lift it and replace the base. To speed up the process, we used an air compressor to push air into the top of the tank, forcing water out more quickly. Connect a hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the heater or use a bucket. If you don’t use air pressure, draining can take several hours.
Step 3: Replace the Water Heater Base
Once the water is drained, carefully lift the water heater and remove the old concrete base. The inspector may have flagged it for not meeting current codes. In our case, we replaced the concrete base with a metal one, which is now standard for water heaters. We picked up the new metal base at a local plumbing supply store for around $50-60.
Position the new base where the old one was, and set the water heater back on top. You can discard the old base as it no longer serves any purpose.
Step 4: Reconnect the Water Lines and Vent
After placing the heater back onto the new base, reconnect the hot and cold water lines at the top. We found that we didn’t need to adjust the pipes because they fit perfectly. Tighten everything securely to avoid leaks later.
Also, reconnect the vent to ensure that gases from the water heater can be safely expelled outside.
Step 5: Extend the Pressure Relief Pipe
Next, replace the existing pressure relief pipe to ensure it complies with the inspection requirements. This pipe should extend to within six inches of the floor. Using CPVC pipe, measure and cut it to the appropriate length. Before permanently attaching the pipe, dry fit the pieces to make sure everything lines up.
Once you’re confident in the fit, use CPVC glue to secure the pipe in place. Don’t forget to glue the threads to ensure a tight, leak-proof seal.
Step 6: Reconnect the Gas Line and Turn Everything Back On
Now that the water heater is securely in place and the pressure pipe is fixed, reconnect the gas line. Apply thread sealant where needed and make sure everything is tightly connected.
Turn on the gas supply and light the pilot, then turn on the water. Allow the water heater to refill and heat up. Check for any leaks around the connections.
Step 7: Final Inspection Check
With the new base and proper pressure relief pipe in place, your water heater should pass any home inspection. Make sure the unit also has seismic straps, which are required in many areas to prevent movement during earthquakes. Inspect all connections for leaks or other issues.
Conclusion
By addressing these common water heater issues, you can save yourself from costly repairs and ensure that your home passes inspection. The process may seem daunting, but it’s manageable with the right tools and knowledge. In just a few hours, you can improve the safety and compliance of your water heater, boosting your home’s value in the process.